| Under the Hollywood Sky |
 Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Fall-Winter 2009-2010 fashion collection.
First, let me mention that Mickey Rourke attended the Jean Paul Gaultier show. I rarely think of Mr. Rourke but I never think of him in terms of haute couture. He had on a black jacket and jeans, something. He was engulfed by photographers and cameramen as he moved to his seat in the front row. “Meeekay! Meeekay, over your shoulder!” Mr. Rickey was speaking intently to a TV host dressed in a silver strapless gown. He took a moment to glance over his shoulders. I was talking to my friend Michael Roberts of Vanity Fair. We pulled in our feet to avoid the slow-moving herd.  Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images Mickey Rourke“Meeekay! Pleeese!” The show was an homage to Hollywood’s golden age. The French are always paying homage to some icon or hero. It takes a certain genius, though, to do hackneyed Hollywood and make something clever out it. Celebrities have knocked models off fashion magazine covers and, of course, Hollywood glamour nowadays is no match for the imagination and skill of haute couture. I’m not sure Mr. Gaultier could have given the costume designers of the 1930s and 40s a run for their money, but he certainly knows how to expand on their dreams and put them in the context of today’s red-carpet fascination. The trouser suits and trench coats that appeared early the show were all sharp tailoring, a “Key Largo” or secret agent moment. Mr. Gaultier’s sartorial jokes can be trying, but this time he was in his sophisticated element. Nothing was purely glamorous—that would be boring—and nothing was ever camp, although the molded chorus girl numbers were obvious show pieces. I liked how he singled out a relatively common style like a farmer’s bib overalls and, again, could recast the idea—in sequined or purple velvet jumpsuits. Contemporary fashion is melodrama, and Mr. Gaultier saw that parallel and exploited it beautifully. As the models came out in wafting mousseline gowns and velvet columns, headshots of screen legends—Mae West, Louise Brooks, Audrey Hepburn, Rita Hayworth—swam across the celestial blue backdrop. I half expected, or hoped, that Mr. Gaultier’s mug would pop up, too.
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